133. The Uselessness of the “National Chamber of Fashion”!
I want to tell you about my latest problem. I should be calm and relaxed to give full rein to my creativity two weeks away from the Milan fashion shows!
The National Chamber of Fashion should represent in a fair way all the Brands attending the Milan fashion week. The fashion show calendar has already been established and the invitations sent to the press.
The National Chamber of Fashion should look after the interests of all and mitigate certain disagreements between stylists that could not be resolved! It should also seek to promote shows and events that will encourage the return of “Made in Italy” to its past successes!
I have been a designer since the 70’s and I remember those years perfectly. Part of my success is due to the support I received from the National Chamber of Fashion and the ICE – Institute for Foreign Trade. These institutions used to organize special events to promote ITALIAN FASHION all over the world! Everybody remembers the beautiful fashion shows in the Piazza di Spagna in Rome!
The Chamber of Italian Fashion today focuses exclusively on set dates and times of the shows twice a year. The Cavalli Fashion House has always been a member of the Chamber of Fashion. Armani, I think is a member, but its choices are treated as orders! Dolce and Gabbana are not members but do not care about everyone and everything, doing its business as if it were the only Italian Fashion House. The French own other important Fashion Houses and, as Italians, we are always to roll out the red carpet for foreigners! The National Chamber of Italian Fashion thus favors the big over the small even if it means preferring non-members to members!
Where do you turn to find the Cavalli Fashion House? Among the larger or the smaller? It depends on the moment!
The Fashion Shows begin on Wednesday and end on Monday. The Cavalli Fashion House has always run the Fashion Show for several years on a Sunday with the first line and the Just Cavalli on Friday. That is until the two “gentlemen” decided to change their hours and overlap with our Fashion Shows. PROFESSIONAL RUDENESS, but their behavior is not new and some decisions are pure provocation!
The National Chamber of Italian Fashion has washed its hands of this in the manner of Pontius Pilate and has not placed us in a space appropriate to the value of our Brand. The Cavalier Boselli -president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion – asked us to cut out our last day, the day dedicated to Armani. This is in support of Milan fashion week as the fashion week in New York and London have pushed to steal that Monday from Milan. This is important in order to reduce the fatigue of international fashion buyers and journalists who move from one city to the next! The Cavalli Fashion House was given no other option but to agree, certain that in the seasons to follow more suitable dates would be given to us to promote our brand properly!Historically, the Cavalli Fashion House has closed the summer collections on a Monday with Armani. The strength of the two major brands made it necessary for the fashion buyers and journalists to stay in Milan and leave for Paris late on Monday evening! The great Armani unilaterally decided to organize a big party on Sunday and then advanced his fashion show by one day without regard for the interests of the other Fashion houses affected.
As usual, the National Chamber of Fashion washes its hands, they cannot oppose the wishes of “king” Armani. The problems are not only mine, think of Milan loss of tourist revenue! What shall we do? Do we run our fashion shows on the last day, running the risk that some foreign buyers and journalists may leave Milan and not attend our Fashion Shows or do we also overlap other brands, “alla Armani?”
Of course, the National Chamber of Fashion gives neither suggestions nor advice, showing that the tens of thousands of Euros we pay each year for the membership are unnecessary expenses!
Enough of these systems! Why is it that only in Italy this absurd arrogance of the big Brands at the expense of the smaller ones exists? Fashion is one of the nation’s heritages and must be preserved and supported by appropriate legislation and an institution that is able to enforce the rules for the benefit of all!
These are difficult times. We need greater cooperation from those who promote and organize these events. They should help to maintain and develop the profitability of companies! We should not try to cannibalize each others businesses. There is room for everyone! And our union and collaboration may be the only way out of this crisis that is already straining the field of FASHION!
Our fashion shows should present our ideas. We should invest more in R&D and less in the presentation of the fashion show itself. It is useless to show how rich we are by creating shows with 80 top expensive models.
We should show how good we are at creating great Italian Fashion…
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