[:en]397. Japanese Fashion in the early eighties…[:it]397. La moda Giapponese all’inizio degli anni Ottanta…[:]
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397. Japanese Fashion in the early eighties…
In the early eighties Japanese fashion imposed itself forcefully.
At first Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto arrived. They were greeted by the press as the new fashion prophets. Indeed they were.
They deconstructed and dismantled all the classic forms of clothing, introduced the unfinished, the holes in the t-shirt and everything with a destroyed-look.
Lots of black, gray, brown, blue and a little ‘white and ecru.
It was fashion genius. They were criticized for not valuing the female body enough, for impoverishing the ideal of the woman’s body so that all glamor was taken away.
Yet by playing clever games with volumes and shapes of dresses and by making a few snips here and there they had made a unique fashion.
They had taken away that respectable bourgeois air that had characterized the late seventies and early eighties periods.
They were revolutionaries who greatly influenced fashion at this time.
Still today I judge their art and their fashion as authentic. It was a real understatement and not something done for appearances sake. It was a shock for me, so baroque and colorful, it initially created a lot of confusion in my head.
I admired this turn of events but was not sure which direction to take. The area of Place des Victoires became my headquarters… rue Etienne Marcel. I started hanging out in the neighborhood every time I went to Paris and was a very charmed witness to the transformation that was taking place because of fashion.
It changed everything everywhere. I realized that it was not my moment, even though the eighties would prove to be much more glamorous and luxurious than many other periods.
Perhaps more than an error of choice, mine was a step back in order to savor the pleasure of a strong family life.
In 1983 Eva gave me the wonderful news that she was expecting. I was in seventh heaven! A child from a lady I love and admire so much!
I LOVE YOU
397. La moda Giapponese all’inizio degli anni Ottanta…
All’inizio degli anni Ottanta s’impose prepotentemente la moda giapponese.
Arrivarono per primi Rei Kawakubo e Yohji Yamamoto. Vennero
accolti dalla stampa come i nuovi profeti. In effetti lo erano.
Decostruirono, smontarono tutte le forme classiche dell’abbigliamento, introdussero il non-finito, i buchi nelle t-shirt e tutto il destroyed-look.
Molto nero, grigio, marrone, blu e un po’ di bianco e di écru.
Fu una moda geniale. Li tacciarono di non valorizzare abbastanza il corpo femminile, di far apparire la donna troppo “povera”, di averle tolto tutto il glamour.
Eppure con giochi di volumi, forme e poche sforbiciate avevano reso la moda unica e le avevano tolto quell’aria borghese e perbene che la caratterizzava in quel periodo fine anni settanta inizio anni Ottanta.
Furono rivoluzionari e influenzarono la moda un po’ alla volta.
Ancora oggi giudico autentica la loro arte, perché́ non era fatta per apparire, anzi era un vero e proprio understatement. Fu una folgorazione per me, così barocco e colorato e mi creò molta confusione in testa.
Però ammiravo quella svolta e non sapevo bene che direzione prendere. La zona di Place des Victoires divenne il mio quartier generale… Anzi, rue Etienne Marcel. Cominciai a bazzicare quel quartiere ogni volta che andavo a Parigi e trovavo molto affascinante assistere alla trasformazione che stava subendo per via della moda.
Cambiava tutto ovunque. Capivo che non era più̀ il mio momento, anche se poi gli anni Ottanta si sarebbero rivelati molto più̀ glamorous e lussuosi di tanti altri periodi.
Forse più̀ che un errore di scelta, il mio fu un tirarsi indietro per poter riassaporare il forte piacere della vita di famiglia.
Nel 1983 Eva mi diede la meravigliosa notizia che aspettava un bambino. Ero al settimo cielo! Un bambino da una donna che amavo così tanto!
I LOVE YOU
396. The Art of transferring emotions…
395. Fashion is Colour, Joie de Vivre, Experimentation, Audacity, Communication…
